The record-breaking mountaineers who influenced, inspired, and changed mountaineering in Nepal
For almost a century, Nepali Mountaineers have navigated the heights and extremes of the Himalayas, earning themselves a place amongst mountaineering royalty. Many members of the Nepali mountaineering community are Sherpas, a Nepalese ethnic group famous for their exceptional climbing skills, superior endurance in high altitudes, and fascinating culture. Over the years, Nepali Mountaineers have assisted thousands of foreign visitors to the summit of the Himalayan mountains, including the renowned peaks of the Annapurna range and the world’s highest mountain, Mount Everest. Their incredible knowledge, ability, and guidance have supported people in achieving epic life goals and helped raise money for extraordinary charities, in addition to tackling record-breaking expeditions and creating history. With their strong will and expertise, the Nepali mountaineering community has conquered every experience and weather condition imaginable, gaining respect worldwide and putting Nepal at the heart of the mountaineering map.
In this article, we’ll look at 10 of the most famous characters of Nepali mountaineering over the past century, from the early pioneers through to modern-day record-breakers.
1. Ang Tharkay Sherpa
Ang Tharkay (from the cover of his memoir titled ‘Sherpa’)
One of the earliest Sherpas to gain international recognition, Ang Tharkay was an active mountaineer for almost thirty years after his first expedition in 1931. Amongst many triumphs throughout his mountaineering career, the greatest was his role in the first successful attempt of an eight-thousander during the French Annapurna expedition in 1950, led by Maurice Herzog. It was this expedition and the subsequent best-selling book, ‘Annapurna’, that made Ang Tharkay famous. He gained hero status by turning down the opportunity to be one of the first to the summit of Annapurna along with the French team, instead taking the selfless act of stepping back and remaining hundreds of metres below the summit, allowing the rest of the team to receive the glory. Whilst descending, the French team could not go on due to extreme frostbite, and Ang Tharkay was amongst the Sherpas to carry the duo back down the mountain. As a result, Ang Tharkay was the very first Sherpa to receive a European honour after being awarded the Légion d’honneur.
The original route of this famous expedition is being resurrected, and travellers will be able to retrace the team’s steps in 2022. You can read more about it in our article: Another Way To Annapurna – Narchyang And The Herzog Trail
2. Gaylay Sherpa
Gaylay Sherpa guiding a German expedition (from the film 1934 ‘Nanga Parbat’ by Frank Leberecht)
With the same honour as Ang Tharkay, Gaylay Sherpa was an equally selfless Nepali mountaineer. His tragic story has brought respect to the Nepali mountaineering community and is one of the many reasons that Sherpas are regarded so highly around the world. During the disastrous 1934 Nanga Parbat expedition in which 10 climbers lost their lives, Gaylay Sherpa was one of the last three alive. After deciding to retreat due to treacherous weather conditions, the exhibition leader could not move, and Gaylay Sherpa opted to stay with him whilst the other climber went to seek help. Sadly, the pair did not make it back down the mountain, but the courage and loyalty that Gaylay Sherpa showed are traits that thrive in the Sherpa community.
3. Tenzing Norgay Sherpa
Tenzing Norgay Sherpa (photo courtesy of facebook.com/SherpaTenzingNorgay)
Tenzing Norgay is one of the world’s most famous mountaineers due to his role as the Sherpa of the first successful ascent of Everest in 1953. Alongside the renowned New Zealand mountaineer Sir Edmund Hillary, Tenzing was part of the duo who were the very first to stand at the top of Everest. It was his 7th Everest expedition and the only time he reached the summit. Tenzing was a strong leader and an incredible guide. He was a firm favourite with foreigners who hired him as a Sherpa for the mountaineering expeditions in Nepal. Following his success, Tenzing was named as one of the most influential people of the 20th Century by Time Magazine, and India’s most prestigious adventure award was renamed in his honour.
4. Gyalzen Norbu Sherpa
A photo of Gyalzen Norbu on top of Mount Manaslu is possibly one of the most iconic photos in Himalayan mountaineering history. This extraordinary Sherpa broke through barriers by being the first person to ascend not one but two of the 8000-metre peaks. In 1955, Gyalzen Norbu successfully led a French team of mountaineers to the peak of Makalu – the first successful ascent. Due to his success, the following year, he joined a Japanese team as lead Sherpa, and together they summited Manaslu and became the first to reach the top. Gyalzen Norbu was a passionate mountaineer and a fierce expedition leader, and played an important role in the history of mountaineering in Nepal.
5. Ang Rita Sherpa
Ang Rita Sherpa with his World Record certificates (photo from New Spotlight Online)
The world-famous Nepali mountaineer known as The Snow Leopard is a legendary record holder who inspires mountaineers to this day. Even now, many years after his death, he retains the Guinness World Record for both of his magnificent accomplishments. Ang Rita was the first and remains the only climber to have summited Everest 10 times without supplemental oxygen. In addition, he was the only mountaineer to ever make a successful ascent without oxygen during the Winter. Not only did the master climber ascend Everest during a treacherous Winter without oxygen, but he was also known to defy the laws of altitude, partaking in strenuous exercise to keep warm. Ang Rita was an extraordinary climber with no formal mountaineering training, yet was considered by his peers to be the most skilled Sherpa of his time.
6. Pasang Lhamu Sherpa
Pasang Lhamu Sherpa during an expedition, courtesy of exploreinspired.com
Inspiring a generation of Nepalese women, Pasang Lhamu Sherpa was thefirst Nepali female to reach the summit of Mount Everest. Before successfully reaching the peak, Pasang attempted to reach the top of Everest three times, showing the women of Nepal and the world that anything is possible with hard work and determination. As inspirational as Pasang Lhamu’s victory may be, the story also has a tragic end, as she sadly died during the descent of the successful climb. Her achievement has been honoured and memorialised across both Nepal and the worldwide mountaineering community.
7. Babu Chiri Sherpa
Official Nepali stamp showing the image of Babu Chiri Sherpa
The king of mountaineering challenges, Babu Chiri, set the bar high for himself, but almost always succeeded. A keen adventurer, Babu summited Everest 10 times but always wanted to tackle something a bit different and set himself unique challenges. His first was to ascend Everest twice in the same season, which he completed in 1995. Next, he carried a tent to the top of the world in 1999, spending 21 hours camped at the summit of Mount Everest without bottled oxygen. The following year, he wanted to climb in the quickest time possible, completing the ascent in under 17 hours. Although Babu Chiri died in 2001, to this day, he still holds the record for the most hours at the summit of Everest without supplemental oxygen, a record he has held for over two decades.
8. Apa Sherpa
Apa Sherpa with his world record certificate (photo from thedispatch.in)
Until his record was beaten in 2017 by the next man on our list, Apa Sherpa was the joint holder of the most ascents of Mount Everest, along with Phurba Tashi. The successful mountaineer tackled Everest a total of 21 times before retiring in 2011. Apa also led the first successful expedition to complete the Great Himalayan Trail, which is considered one of the world’s most difficult treks. Not only does Apa have an important place in Nepali mountaineering history, but he has also made waves within Nepalese communities and across the world. His final four Everest expeditions were the Eco Everest Expedition, in which the teams campaigned against climate change at the summit and brought down tonnes of trash, including parts of a crashed helicopter. In 2009, Apa founded the Apa Sherpa Foundation, a non-profit organisation supporting disadvantaged individuals in Nepal and dedicated to improving economic development and education.
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Kami Rita Sherpa celebrates his Everest world record
From the beginning of his mountain career as a teenage porter working on the Everest base camp route, Kami Rita has risen through the ranks to become one of the most accomplished mountaineers in history. Coming from a family of Sherpa guides, mountaineering is in his blood – his father was amongst the first of professional Nepali mountaineers, and his brother also followed in his path. At the age of 24, he summited Mount Everest for the very first time, and that was just the very start. Over the last 28 years, Kami Rita has conquered Mount Everest a staggering 25 times, holding the record for the most ascents to the summit since 2018 and completing his 25th expedition in 2021. He also holds the record for the most 8000-metre summits with a total of 38, having also tackled K2, Lhotse, Manaslu, and Cho Oyu. Kami Rita has achieved extraordinary success throughout his mountaineering career and has no desire to retire any time soon, with plans to climb for as long as he is able to.
One of the most famous modern-day mountaineers is Nirmal ‘Nims’ Purja, star of the recent Netflix hit ’14 Peaks – Nothing is Impossible’. Born and raised in Nepal, Nims served with the renowned Gurkha regiment before serving with distinction in the UK Special Forces. He holds a firm place within the Nepali mountaineering community and the nation as a whole. Now a British citizen after his military service, Nims has gone on to hold multiple world records for mountaineering and received an MBE in 2018 for his accomplishments. In 2019, Nirmal set the speed record for climbing all 14 of the eight-thousanders at 6 months and 6 days, smashing the previous record by over 7 years. Most recently, Nirmal was part of the team of Nepali mountaineers who completed the first-ever winter ascent of K2.
These members of the Nepali mountaineering community, they have conquered, changed history, and set exceptional world records, influencing generations both past and present. The strength, stamina, and good heart of the Sherpas encourage budding mountaineers from across the Earth. The Nepali mountaineers are the backbone of the climbing industry, and with their combined experience and expertise, the worldwide mountaineers of today and tomorrow continue to be inspired.
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How a small village is playing its part in solving overtourism and the revival of the Maurice Herzog trail
Narchyang and the Herzog Trail represent an exciting new chapter for trekking enthusiasts seeking to escape the crowded paths of the Himalayas. Recognised in a recent UN report, the story of Narchyang and its role in the revival of the Maurice Herzog Trail is a lesson in how tourism can do better, and it’s given travellers the chance to retrace the footsteps of one of the most famous expeditions in mountaineering history.
We’ll start our story with Ajay Pun, an ambitious young Nepali from Narchyang – a picturesque village deep in the Annapurna Range. Upper Narchyang had been part of the route taken by the great French mountaineer, Maurice Herzog, as he became the first man to scale a mountain above 8,000m in 1950 when he conquered Annapurna I along with his French and Nepali team. His book ‘Annapurna’, which told the incredible, near-death story of the expedition, became a huge hit around the world and gave Narchyang a degree of fame for some time.
The cover of ‘Annapurna’ by Maurice Herzog
The legends of Herzog are still told in the village today, but whilst nearby routes to Annapurna began to attract a steady stream of travellers, Herzog’s original route was largely forgotten, and Narchyang was rarely visited by tourists in the years since. The villagers continued to farm or work on nearby hydroelectric projects, and anyone seeking more opportunities or a better education would leave for Kathmandu or Pokhara.
Working the farmland around Narchyang (photo from 8thwonder)
Ajay moved to Kathmandu at 18 and began working in a restaurant before moving into tourism with a white-water rafting company. A few years later, he started working as a travel consultant for Community Homestay Network – a social enterprise that supports and enables communities across Nepal to become hosts for trekkers and travellers. It was here that Ajay started to realise that he could do something special for his village and for his region.
Just 2 hours on foot from Narchyang, the village of Tatopani had been gradually gaining popularity as a stopover on the Annapurna Circuit and a starting point for the Annapurna Base Camp Trek. Whilst this was good for Tatopani in many ways, their infrastructure isn’t built to cope with the additional people, and it started to have some adverse effects.
In rural areas, if tourism becomes concentrated in one place, then it can change the whole area, creating pollution and waste, which causes major damage to the environment and wildlife. We’ve seen it many times before, all over the world. It also means that the human and social benefits of tourism aren’t shared by all the people of the region.
Villagers meeting in Narchyang (photo by 8th wonder)
Ajay could see the opportunity for Narchyang to ease the burden on Tatopani, and he knew the experience they could offer to Annapurna Circuit trekkers. The village itself, made up of three levels on the hillside, is in a stunning setting with mountain views, with nearby waterfalls and hot springs to explore, and Ajay was sure that the Magar hospitality they would offer to guests would be very popular too.
Houses in Narchyang village
At Community Homestay Network, he was with the people who could help make his dream a reality. He spent a year working for the company, learning how the homestay network operated and about the tourism industry as a whole, before leaving his job and returning to Narchyang to set about establishing a community homestay in the village.
Meanwhile, plans to revive the trail used by Maurice Herzog’s famous expeditions were gathering pace. Basic trekking facilities were being installed, ready for the opening of the trail in early 2022. This would create even more demand for accommodation, with Narchyang being the starting point for the route to Annapurna North Base Camp.
One of Nepal’s most established tour operators, Royal Mountain Travel, also agreed to include Narchyang instead of Tatopani in its Annapurna Circuit Trek, offering something different for its travellers and reducing the environmental impact of one of its most popular packages. Things were starting to look positive for Narchyang.
With a promise of investment to increase capacity and to provide the knowledge and training they would need to host tourists, Ajay convinced five families to start up their own homestays. Each family would take turns in hosting guests so that the income was spread fairly, and the influx of travellers would create opportunities for the whole village.
Greeting a traveller in Narchyang (photo by Ajay Pun)
In autumn 2019, Ajay’s idea began to gain momentum, with over 50 travellers staying with host families over just 3 months. Feedback was overwhelmingly positive, with guests enjoying the laid-back atmosphere and the chance to get to know the people of the village and help out with daily chores or farm work. In Nanchang, travellers are treated more like family members than customers, and it’s this kind of unique, genuine experience that so many modern tourists are looking for.
Amidst this wave of optimism, COVID-19 reared its ugly head in early 2020, meaning Narchyang’s new venture had to be put on hold for a while, but with tourists now returning to Nepal and the Maurice Herzog trail opening up, the village’s hosts are ready to welcome travellers to their unique corner of the Himalayas once again.
Narchyang village (photo by Ajay Pun)
Narchying Community Homestay has been used as a case study in a recent UN report on mountain tourism, which cites the project as a solution to some of the big issues facing tourist destinations across the world, and points to a possible way forward to make the tourism industry a more sustainable place.
In a country with so many trekking options, choosing the right area for you can be tricky. Read our guide to the trekking regions of Nepal to help you decide.
Khumbu Region
Nepal’s most famous and most developed trekking region is dominated by the mighty Mount Everest, and travellers come year after year to see the world’s highest mountain up close.
There’s more to the region than just Everest, of course, and you’ll find a variety of different trekking routes, as well as welcoming mountain communities, jaw-dropping scenery, and the fascinating Sherpa capital at Namche Bazaar.
You’ll find that the trails are well-maintained and the tea houses along the route are some of the best in Nepal, with comfortable beds, showers, Wi-Fi, and a varied food and drink menu.
Most adventures in this region begin with a 30-minute flight from Kathmandu to Lukla.
Take a look at the Everest Base Camp trek with Royal Mountain Travel.
Nepal’s second most famous trekking destination, this spectacular part of the country lies in the Central Himalayan range, not far from the lakeside city of Pokhara. You’ll find incredible mountain scenery at every turn, with some of the country’s highest and most famous peaks found here, including the imposing Annapurna Massif, which gives the region its name.
There’s a wide range of adventures on offer, ranging from gentler 3-4 day treks through the foothills where you can stay with welcoming local communities, right through to serious mountaineering, extreme sports, and the iconic 230km Annapurna Circuit.
With most trailheads easily reached from Pokhara and an excellent trekking infrastructure in place, Annapurna is understandably popular with outdoor-lovers of all abilities.
This isolated region nestled in the Himalayas offers something different. The mustang region is cooler and more arid, giving it the feel of a high-altitude desert. Its location also protects it from the monsoon season, making it a good option during those summer months.
The people of Mustang are semi-independent and follow traditional Tibetan Buddhism, giving the culture a different feel from the rest of Nepal.
The gateway city is the city of Jomsom – a 30-minute flight or 10-hour drive from Pokhara, and permits must be arranged in advance.
Accommodation is a mixture of camping and basic tea houses.
This region between Kathmandu and Pokhara is home to the world’s 8th-highest mountain, Manaslu, and offers a quieter, more remote experience than Everest or Annapurna. The scenery is just as spectacular, however, and trekking infrastructure is constantly improving. You can enjoy a mix of camping and simple tea houses, as well as the feeling of being all alone in the mountains.
The trails can be accessed from Soti Khola, around a 7-hour drive from Kathmandu.
The Langtang National Park may lack the famous peaks of Everest or Annapurna, but exploring this region can be just as rewarding. This part of the Himalayas sits at a slightly lower altitude, making it one of Nepal’s more accessible trekking regions and allowing you to get closer to the mountains themselves.
The people of Langtang are known for their vibrant culture, so the chance to know and even stay amongst these communities is something to treasure.
If you’re short on time or aren’t keen on doing a longer trek, the Kathmandu Valley has some great little trails to explore. Sure, the mountains are more distant, but the walking is easier, and you’ll gain a wonderful insight into the lives of the people in this historical part of Nepal.
Remote and barely explored by tourists, the far western part of Nepal has always had its challenges in terms of development and accessibility. Trekking groups have to be self-sufficient, since you won’t find many tea houses along these rocky trails.
Things are slowly starting to change, and through initiatives such as the Community Homestay Network, more and more intrepid tourists are beginning to explore this fascinating part of the country.
It’s well worth the effort, with incredible, untouched scenery, as well as unique tribal communities and diverse wildlife.
The gateway to this region is the city of Nepalgunj – a short flight away from Kathmandu.
The eastern Himalaya Region is often forgotten by trekkers heading to Everest and Annapurna, and it is this remoteness and tranquillity that will give you a truly unforgettable experience. Home to two of the world’s five highest mountains, Mt. Makalu (5th) and Mt. Kanchenjunga (3rd), as well as dense alpine forests and rolling foothills, it is untouched nature at its finest.
The people in eastern Nepal have a culture all of their own, formed by centuries of relative isolation, and visiting these unique communities is a real highlight of visiting this part of the country.
The infrastructure is more basic than in the more popular regions, with fewer and more basic tea houses on offer, and more challenging trails. Eastern Nepal may not be the easiest option, but it is certainly one of the most rewarding parts of Nepal for trekking.
Take on Mt. Kanchenjunga with Royal Mountain Travel.
What to expect and where to go for trekking and hiking in Nepal
With the world’s most famous mountain range on our doorstep, it’s no wonder that so many adventurous travellers make their way to Nepal each year, ready to strap on their trekking boots and go exploring. But what kind of experience should you expect? When should you go? Should you hire a guide? Where will you sleep?!?
In this guide, we’ll try to answer some of the big questions, and you can also get in touch with our team to go through your trekking options in more detail.
Your trekking and hiking experience in Nepal
You may have visions of ancient explorers scaling mountains and battling through blizzards, but nowadays trekking in Nepal is a much more inclusive experience. There is a huge range of treks and short hikes, suitable for most abilities, and for the most part, you’ll find good facilities and well-marked trails.
There are still opportunities for more extreme adventures and mountaineering, of course, but most people come to enjoy the epic mountain scenery, the feeling of relative isolation from the modern world, and to take on a physical challenge that is within their abilities.
Along the way, you’ll witness a way of life that has barely changed in centuries. The communities that live in this part of the world have embraced trekking as a way of supporting their livelihoods, and the encounters you have with the local people can be just as memorable as the Himalayas themselves.
Do I need to be fit?
It helps, of course, but you don’t necessarily need to be a superhero to come trekking in Nepal. You can choose anything from tough 3-week expeditions to gentle hikes through the Himalayan foothills, many of which can be completed by families, older people, or even those with some mobility issues.
If you’re not sure which trail is right for you, you can speak to our team for some advice on which to choose.
Accommodation
Camping is still common, particularly in more remote trekking regions, but nowadays many people choose to spend their evenings in the tea houses found along most of the popular routes. You’ll often have a private room, and meals can be purchased too, and in some places you’ll even have WIFI, hot showers, and Western toilets. Although these tea houses vary in terms of comfort and facilities, the warm welcomes and the chance to meet other trekkers from around the world make them a popular option.
Thanks to the pioneering work of the Community Homestay Network, you can also choose to stay with a host family in one of the villages along your route. You’ll have plenty of privacy and your own room, and the chance to meet and learn about these people and how they live is a priceless experience.
Food and Drink
Predictably, you’ll find Dal Bhat is the first (and sometimes only) thing on the menu in most tea houses. This is not a bad thing – it’s super-filling, cheap, and the cook will usually put their own little twist on it.
Many teahouses along the popular trekking routes have started to cater more to Western travellers, and you might find that you can enjoy a burger or something else familiar after a long day on your feet. You’ll often be able to purchase beers, chocolate bars, and other snacks from small tea or coffee stands along the way, too.
If you’d prefer to camp rather than stay in a teahouse, then we’d recommend packing a good stove and stocking up on food supplies in Pokhara or Kathmandu. Alternatively, if you join a guided trek, this will usually be taken care of for you.
Guides and Porters
Many young Nepalis choose to make use of their mountain experience by working as guides or porters, and their services can be invaluable in keeping you safe and giving you the best trekking experience possible.
Guides and porters can usually be hired locally before you set off, but you may want to consider arranging this in advance through a reputable company such as Royal Mountain Travel – they ensure that their employees are fairly paid, fairly treated, and have all the knowledge and experience needed.
Porters have a history of being exploited, underpaid, and made to carry huge weights, which can do permanent damage to their health. Please make sure that the bag you give your porter weighs under 15kg, or hire a second porter. If you see an overloaded porter, you should report it to the trekking company.
What to pack
Being well-prepared for your trek is vital and will allow you to enjoy your trekking experience to the maximum. We’ve put together a comprehensive Nepal Packing List, including what you’ll need for trekking, to help you make sure you put the right things in your rucksack before you set off.
Altitude Sickness
Altitude sickness can affect even the fittest people, and it can be fatal in extreme cases or if it isn’t managed correctly. Take it seriously, be prepared, and always take the time to acclimatise.
You can read our Medical advice and altitude sickness page for advice on how to prevent altitude sickness, and how to react if it happens to you.
Choosing to combine Nepal with India, Bhutan, and Tibet creates the ultimate Himalayan travel itinerary for adventurous globetrotters. Nepal’s history has been hugely influenced by its landlocked position between India and the Tibetan region of China, whilst nearby Bhutan offers a glimpse into a culture like nowhere else on earth. If you’re planning a longer stay in this part of Asia, you can combine your time in Nepal with a visit to one of our neighbours.
Our partners at Royal Mountain Travel can give advice on planning your multi-country adventure, as well as help with tour and transport bookings to make sure you travel as smoothly as possible.
Combining Nepal with India
India and Nepal share deep historical and cultural connections, but visitors often notice clear differences as soon as they cross the border. India’s bustling cities are famous for their vibrant streets, markets, and sensory experiences, which can be exciting or overwhelming depending on your perspective. Beyond the urban areas, India offers spectacular mountains, dense jungles, and beautiful beaches in the south.
Getting there: Flights connect Kathmandu with most major Indian cities, including Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata, and Bangalore. Overland travel is also possible via several official land border crossings, such as Bhairahawa (Sunauli), Raxaul (Birgunj), Nepalgunj, Biratnagar, Kakarvitta, and Mahendranagar.
Things to note:
Nepal visas: Most nationalities can obtain a visa on arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport or at some major land borders. To avoid delays, it is recommended to complete the online visa application in advance at Nepal Immigration.
India visas: India generally does not issue visas on arrival for most foreign travelers. You should check the requirements and apply in advance through the Indian e-Visa portal.
Combining Nepal with Bhutan
Bhutan, landlocked in the eastern Himalayas, is a unique country where traditional Buddhism shapes daily life, and national success is measured by Gross National Happiness. With protected forests covering around 70% of the country and strong environmental policies, Bhutan is one of the world’s only carbon-positive nations, offering a truly distinctive travel experience.
Getting there: Bhutan’s only international airport, Paro, has direct flights to Kathmandu and select cities across Asia, primarily via Drukair and Bhutan Airlines. You can also enter overland from India through Phuntsholing in the west or Samdrup Jongkhar in the east.
Things to note:
Tourism is strictly regulated to ensure sustainability. Foreign visitors must pay a Sustainable Development Fee (SDF) of around USD 100 per night, which typically covers accommodation, meals, transport, and a licensed guide. Independent itineraries are possible, but your visa and travel plan must be arranged in advance through a licensed Bhutanese tour operator.
Travel Nepal partners with one of Bhutan’s official tourism companies, so please get in touch if you’d like some help putting your Bhutan trip together.
Combining Nepal with Tibet (China)
Tibet has long shared cultural and historical ties with Nepal, and Tibetan heritage continues to influence Nepali traditions. The region’s remote landscapes, ancient monasteries, and largely unchanged tribal communities make it a fascinating destination for adventurous travelers.
Getting there: Daily flights operate from Kathmandu to Lhasa, and you can also enter overland via Gyirong (Kyirong) County, a scenic road crossing through the Himalayas. Other access points to Tibet are primarily from mainland China.
Things to note:
Tibet is an autonomous region of China, so all travelers must obtain a Chinese visa in advance. In addition, a Tibet Travel Permit is mandatory. Independent travel is generally not allowed, and most tours include assistance with obtaining the permit and planning your itinerary.
